Sword Cleaning Instructions
Caution - the blade of your Katana is extremely sharp and may cause
serious injury. Make sure that the blade edge is never in a position
where it could injure yourself or others. Never clean or oil the blade
with the edge towards you and avoid touching the edge at all times.
Never draw or sheath the Katana with edge towards you. Never allow
children to handle the Katana.
For best results, only use acid free oil (fine gun oil, sword oil)
or acid free wax which can be found most Japanese sword cleaning
kits.
Unsheathing and sheathing the Katana
The blade fit in the scabbard (saya) is deliberately firm to avoid
accidental unsheathing. Do not unsheathe the blade by simply pulling
the handle and the scabbard apart, this is dangerous and will wear the
scabbard throat (koiguchi). To correctly unsheathe the blade, hold the
wrapped section of the scabbard with the left hand (edge side up) and
the handle with the right hand. With the left thumb push away the guard
(tsuba) away from the throat of the scabbard (Fig. A). When the
friction resistance is broken, slide the blade gently from the
scabbard, making sure the back of the blade, not the edge, contacts the
scabbard during the withdrawal (Fig. B). This avoids dulling the blade
and cutting the scabbard.
To re-sheath the blade, hold the katana handle in the right hand, edge
up, and the scabbard by the wrapped section with the left hand, making
sure that the scabbard is curving in the same direction as the blade.
Carefully insert the tip of the blade into the throat of the scabbard
and gently slide the scabbard and blade together, again making sure
that the back of the blade, not the edge, is in contact with the
scabbard. Resistance will be felt when the guard is within about an
inch of the scabbard, and a slightly firmer push will then be needed to
fully seat the blade.
Always store your Katana horizontally with the edge side up. This
prevents the edge from bearing on the scabbard and preserves the
condition of both. If the fit between the Katana and the scabbard
becomes loose, through usage, the fit must be restored to prevent
accidental unsheathing.
The following assumes that you are using a Japanese Sword
Maintenance Kit (as shown below) or similar product.
Contents of Maintenance Kit
- Cotton Cloth
- Powder Ball, for applying polishing powder to blade
- Sword Oil
- Rice Paper, for cleaning oil from the blade, polishing and spreading oil on the blade
- Brass
Hammer, for removing and installing bamboo pins in grip. While this
tool is a traditional part of the maintenance kit, we strongly
recommend against disassembly of the Katana as the bamboo pins will
wear, resulting in a loose grip. Do not remove the handle without
having formal training.
Maintaining your Katana
The scabbard of your Katana is finished in many coats of black lacquer.
To preserve the sheen, the scabbard needs only to be wiped occasionally
with a very soft cloth. Handle the scabbard only by holding the wrapped
section; otherwise fine scratches caused by handling the lacquered
sections will dull the finish.
Blade maintenance is very important to preserve the finish. The
maintenance kit allows you to maintain your blade the same way as
original pieces were (and are) maintained. Blade maintenance should be
performed at least every three months and any time the blade is touched
(skin oil will cause rapid corrosion of fine steels).
Blade Maintenance
First, use a sheet of rice paper to remove oil from previous
maintenance, holding the edge away from you and working very carefully
to avoid injury. (Note: if you wish to save the rice paper, a soft
cotton cloth may be substituted) (Fig. D)
Then tap the powder ball lightly against the blade every two inches or
so along its length, dusting the blade very lightly with powder. (Note:
when using the ball for the first time, you may need to tap the ball
against the blade a few times to "start" the powder flow through the
fabric of the ball.) Then use a clean piece of rice paper or cotton
cloth to carefully rub over the powder to polish the blade. Repeat
until both sides of the blade have been polished and the powder is
removed. (Fig. E) Do not inhale the powder.
Apply a few drops of oil along the length of each side of the blade and
use a piece of rice paper or cotton cloth to spread the oil evenly over
the blade. Be sure not to touch the blade again before re-sheathing.
(Fig. F)
NOTE: If you have rust, etc - try using a soft buffing wheel with the
black compound. You can also go to the auto parts store and get 'mag
wheel cleaner' (Eagle 1 is a good brand) or use Metal Glo with fine-grade steel wool. Remember to gently use the steel wool in a brushing stroke parallel to the grain of the steel (the direction of the lines in the steel). Warning - rubbing in circles or across the grain will scratch the steel. If your sword is not a Katana - look at it carefully
to determine the direction of the grain. With some swords, the grain
runs from the middle (fuller) towards the sharp edges on both sides.
For best results, only have your swords, armor and weapons cleaned by a
professional to avoid scratching or damage. All suggestions and tips on
this page are for informational purposes only. All liability remains
with the individual performing the cleaning.
